Advice, por favor

[Izzenhood]

If you really want to meet locals there are a couple of cantinas and a ladies bar (cantinas are generally for men only), that I can recommend, although it has been 6 years. All are in safe, touristy areas.

One is El Incendio at Cantarranas 15 near el Jardin. An interesting feature of this Cantina is the piss ditch at the foot of the bar. I have seen these in old western bars in the US, although at El Incendio I suspect you could still use it.

Another local Cantina is on the road to the La Presa. From el Jardin head southeasterly (good luck figuring that out in GTO) past Teatro Jaurez and take the street under the bridge bar and across the road barreling out of the tunnel. A few hundred yards farther along on the left is (or was) a nondescript cantina called El Minero, or something like that.
Kind of reminds me of the Miners Tavern in Silverton. Friendly locals, but no tourists. Better speak some spanish.

The third bar I would recommend to meet locals is the Ladies Bar next to Mercado Hildago. I think that is even its name. Not as scruffy as the other two I mentioned, but one can't have everything!

There are a couple mercados more local that the Mercado Hildago, although it is definately worth a visit. The best market I found was at Plaza Embajadoras, which is past the Miner's Tavern on the way to La Presa. A second was on the way to the mummy museum but was pretty sparse, although I didn't visit on a weekend.

There are quite a few free maps of the city available. Get them all.

I was in GTO for a month about 6 years ago. It was the best vacation of my life. I was there in January. Perfect weather in my estimation.